Saturday 11 June 2011

Quien es la musica?

I have two memories of my last visit to Sucre with my brother back in 2003: the first was the dinotruck, the less than subtley painted transport out to a site of dinosaur footprints, most interesting for the eccentric guide who explained the history with plastic figures (and memorable for the obligatory bright orange hard hats); the second a great little bar that served an amazing traditional stew and where you ladelled your beer from a fishbowl.  This time around, neither of us were bothered about the dinosaurs, but Angela humoured me in search of a bar who's name or location I did not recall and that more than likely had bitten the dust in the last 8 years, as I'm sure many Bolivian haunts do.  So with only the knowledge that it was on the left hand side of a street, off we went.  It didn't help that I only really remembered the interior, and on sunday evening most places were shut!  However, after a couple of chimes of 'it must be this street...', I was sure I had found it, but sure enough its doors were locked and a glimpse through the dark window couldn't confirm my suspicions.  We passed it again the next afternoon and I was delighted it was the same place, with the same dish on the menu.  So needless to say I was gutted to return at dinner time and it was shut again!  Panic ye not, it was just a litte too early so later we returned and although we decided we weren't in the mood for a whole fishbowl of beer, the place was still really cool and had great music, as it had so many years before (a story that will only mean anything to my brother - we tried and unsurprisingly failed in our pigeon spanish to find out who was playing that night).  And of course there was the Pique, an absolutely delicious and mountainous plate of beef, sausage, onions, peppers and tomato in a thin stew served over a mound of chips...

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