Often it's the insects that try their best to ruin the most beautiful places on this earth. The midges in the Scottish Highlands cloud the sky and drive you to distraction in summer, the sandflies on New Zealand's west coast cloak you the moment you step foot on the beach and the mosquitos in Thailand leave their mark for days. Tayrona is indeed one of the world's most incredible places, an hour's trek through the rainforest opens out to crashing surf; giant boulders leading the way to the next cove fringed with palms. And we were pleasantly surprised at the lack of bites we picked up along the way. Then the night fell and they came. Oh how they came. Into our campsite they swarmed, devouring all before them, a deafening buzz piercing the tranquil night. By morning there was nothing but a trail of devastation and sleepless bodies. It was too good to be true after all. No paradise is free from pests. Bloody teenagers.
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