Bogota

We were told Bogota would take our breath away.  Maybe they meant the walk up to Cerro de Monserrate at 3200m to visit the church and see the view?  That's if we chanced it, one of the many negative stories we had heard was robberies seem to be an ongoing problem on the footpath.  I must admit to being slightly apprehensive during our first few hours in Bogota.  Reviews had been mixed and most of the negative press was related to personal safety or gun crime.  This was highlighted on our first inner city outing: I noticed a sign 'No Fire Arms' on the bus.  I let out a nervous chuckle; at home you'd be reminded to keep feet off the seats!

I did not expect to find such a stylish and modern city that oozed cool.  The colonial architecture, refined galleries and museums left us speechless and we were completley won over by the city with the bad reputation.  But Bogota's appeal isn't just the pretty buildings and well invested cultural scence.  It has amazing street life.  Art is again key but in the form of graffiti, bars are little quirky havens and the people are friendly and so polite.  We spent a great afternoon in a dusty square listening to music in the sunshine and enjoying a bank holiday with the locals.  We also spent hours and hours taking pictures in so many of the galleries and museums, they are truly world class.  The Botero collection of 'fat' paintings and sculptures was one highlight and the Museo del Oro gave us an incredible journey through the history of gold craft in Colombia and a spiritual education in the ways of the Shaman.  It was also fascinating to see so many intricate ancient pieces of metalwork and pottery, and of course a little amusing considering their obsession with male genitalia!   

The only thing I do regret about Bogota is not eating enough, actually when i think about it, any, cake!  They had coffee shops to rival any french patisserie and the cocoa was like drinking melted dark chocolate.  Even Paul was hooked.  Now we (meaning I of course) can't find cake anywhere and I have looked, believe me!  No cake.  It must be something to do with the weather.  All through our previous Andean adventures we had been amazed at the splendour of display cabinets in shop windows and salivated at supermarket counters.  Now we are further north and in warmer climes, in dark moments and when I've burnt myself in the sun, I find myself wishing for 14 degrees and a big slice of chocolate fudge cake or a lemon tart, even just a little cookie...